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Southern Rocklobster Limited

number seven August 2009

FOOD EDITOR ANN OLIVER

 

  • IN THIS ISSUE we’ve taken the concept of our consommé cold roll from last summer and used it to give a modern twist to the old French classic, rocklobster with vanilla, VANILLA COLD ROLL WITH SOUTHERN ROCKLOBSTER AND PORCINI SALAD. The subtle vanilla flavour and the sweetness of the Southern Rocklobster is a gorgeous foil for the rest of the ingredients. read more
  • GENIUS AT WORK - CHEF PROFILE Luke Stepsys is just 31 years old and has the prize job in Australia, executive chef at Penfolds Magill Estate Restaurant, the purpose built restaurant which showcases one of the world’s most celebrated wines Penfolds Grange. read more
  • Penfolds Magill Estate executive chef Luke Stepsys shares his recipe for Australian Southern Rocklobster read more
  • Read more about a new English edition of the Spanish magazine Apicius, aimed solely at the professional chef. read more
  • From the Executive Officer’s Desk:

    Welcome to our seventh newsletter.
    As we enter into our third year of the market development program, it’s pleasing to see some signs of bottoming out of the fallout from the global financial crisis. Australia has come through this turbulent period relatively well and hopefully we can look forward to recovery, growth and expansion of our program. It would be fair to say the timing of launching our global program could not have been in a more challenging period, with soft demand and fluctuating exchange rates combined with and record high beach prices.
    While the prices received by CLEAN GREEN certified lobster fishers have been strong, challenges emerged in the last season in terms of catch rates and lobster stock strength. This has seen rapid management responses in the three rocklobster producing States, with catch quota cuts aimed at sustainability across the board. This is one of the strong features of our industry, in that, when management action is required, immediate steps are taken to ensure long–term sustainability. The recent moves will no doubt protect the fishery, our industry and key markets, and it is guaranteed that the correct action will be taken to ensure stocks recover and supply to markets is assured. In the meantime, a slower supply and further strengthening of prices can be expected in the short term.
    We are excited about the year ahead as we expand our “basket of seafood” in the USA market. We have established a strong relationship with key suppliers and our value added rocklobster range including bisque, steaks and ravioli, is attracting new interest from high–end customers. We expect a watershed year for the program as we demonstrate our long–term commitment to the USA market and continue to build our customer network.
    A further sign of our commitment to our customers is the permanent relocation of Matt Muggleton and Hamish Parsons to the USA. From this base Matt and Hamish will continue to work with chefs across the country to utilize our magnificent rocklobster in ways that adds business value and delivers customers satisfaction.
    In closing on behalf of the Australian Southern Rocklobster industry, we wish our customers a rapid recovery from the recent difficult period we know has been experienced and we look forward to working with you over the coming twelve months.

    Roger Edwards
    President Southern Rocklobster Limited


    Southern Rocklobster Pâté with
    Crisp Pancetta and Rockmelon
    Thai Salad of Southern
    Rocklobster with Pineapple, Green Radish and Choko

    Click on the image to find the recipe on our web site

     

    For further information and sponsorship opportunities
    click here to email Kate Dermody — to see the venue click here

    CLEAN AND GREEN.........................the fundamental philosopy of our member fishermen and management
     

    CLEAN AND GREEN

    Is the industry commitment to see businesses continue to prosper with sustainable fishing in some of the world’s most pristine waters.

    Clean Green Program Update — Certified Sustainable Wild Caught
    Australian Southern Rocklobster fishers have a generational association with the rocklobster industry. Their great grandfathers, fathers and their children are an integral part of Southern Rocklobster membership and the future of the rocklobster industry in Australia. Sustainability is not a new word, or a fashion for Southern Rocklobster member fishers because it is an industry that has been passed from generation to generation and one the current generation wants to preserve for future generations of their families. Our member fishers are the custodians of the rocklobster industry for their children and their children’s children.
    Catches are controlled with strict quotas and our pots are specifically designed to allow undersized lobsters to escape, while female lobsters laden with eggs are immediately returned to the sea. The industry protects the wider marine environment by adhering to strict environmental practices through the independently third party audited CLEAN GREEN program.



    Our land. Our Plan. Our Future

    The Oaks Plaza Pier the location for the 6th National Rocklobster Congress
         
     
     
    TECHNIQUE GREEN MEAT EXTRACTION
     

    At Southern Rocklobster Limited we are constantly working on ways to improve food costs, lessen preparation time and improve the quality of finished product in unique and innovative ways.

    The ice slurry meat extraction method perfected at the end of 2007 has opened up a raft of recipes and techniques previously not possible because of the degree of cook in meat extract by the old blanching and refreshing method. If you are new to Southern Rockobster we urge you to take a close look at our green meat extraction method and other technical and storage advice on our web site.

    READ OUR COMPLETE TECHNIQUE ADVICE FOR AUSTRALIAN SOUTHERN ROCKLOBSTER

     
    LUKE STEPSYS, PENFOLDS MAGILL ESTATE RESTAURANT
    Luke Stepsys was born in Launceston Tasmania, Australia and is 31 years old and has been working in the industry since he was 13. At The Lawrence Street Brasserie, a classic French style brasserie, they grew their own vegetables, raised their own chickens, hunted for local venison and wallaby and caught their own fish and it was here that Stepsys discovered a passion for cooking. He finished his apprenticeship in a structured big hotel environment that taught him discipline and instilled a strong work ethic. Stepsys showed reluctance to take the next step and for a time he drifted from restaurant to restaurant until chance connected him with the inspirational Dr. Andrew Pirie, accredited as the genius behind the Tasmanian sparkling wine industry, now working out of Bay Of Fires, Tasmania. Here Luke began to understand the importance of wine and food as a single integral experience and enjoyed a chef’s paradise with his own kitchen garden and spent much of his time between service periods truffle hunting and fishing for trout and yabbies.
    In 2002 he joined the team at the acclaimed Terrace Restaurant and the restaurant won many awards under his leadership, including best fine dining restaurant in Tasmania in 2006, 07 and 08. The restaurant was recognised by Australian Gourmet Traveller to be amongst the leading restaurants in the country and won multiple chef hats in various food guides. The restaurant was one of only a handful of Australian restaurants to be awarded 2 wine goblets in the American Wine Spectator Magazine in 2006, 07 and 08. Stepsys assumed control of two other Hobart restaurants within the group encountering media backlash when one of the restaurants was awarded the maximum 3–chef hat rating in the Tasmanian Guide before he had changed the menu. Stepsys owns up to becoming obsessive and admits he neglected the other restaurants in his determination to win critical acclaim in his own right for that restaurant.
    Then in 2008 a dream job was advertised for executive chef at Penfolds Magill Estate Restaurant working with one of the world’s most acclaimed wines Penfolds Grange and a depth and breadth of premium Australian wines with back vintage selections not found in any other restaurant in the world. Stepsys fully appreciates the privilege of the position and had previously worked with their chief winemaker and custodian of Grange Peter Gago and knew the demands and pressures of the position. Since Luke’s arrival in September 2008, the restaurant food has undergone many changes and his aim to create a greater synergy between the food and the wine, and refine and perfect his own cooking style is starting to gain acclaim. They plan to establish kitchen gardens in the near future and Stepsys has invested a lot of time finding the best local producers and incorporating them into his menus.
    At just 31 Luke Stepsys is still in his infancy when it comes to his career and has taken to the responsibility, of what is regarded as the diamond of chef positions in Australia with great promise.


    IDEAS AND TRICKS AND BOOKS APICIUS a very clever Spanish publication
     
     

    apicius
    international edition
    published by Montagud Editores S.A, Spain
    available by subscription in Australia from ecotel Adelaide email or telephone +61 8 8410 3633
    $136 plus postage for two annual issues, for USA and elsewhere contact Montagud Editores S.A, Spain
    second issue now available

    Apart from nearly fainting at the price and immediately complaining that three good books could be purchased for the subscription price, after careful reading and examination I have to admit my opinion is changed. Unfortunately a lot of books and magazines about food and wine suffer in content because they are written by journalists, albeit with a passion for food and wine, but journalists without real subject knowledge. Given that apicius is pitched at the professional chef the text is rather mundane and there are quite a few typos that for the price should not be there. However, what the Montagud publishing house has managed to do is bridge the difficulty of modern publishing and the electronic media and includes web sites, u–tube references and much more. These contemporary references provide an immediate journey elsewhere, that just a few years ago would have been a very different experience. This is a very very clever publication! Ten years ago the article and recipe referencing at the back of the magazine would have left the reader with a list of books that may well have lead to credit card melt down and the annoyance of waiting for weeks for books to arrive from overseas because they were never stocked in Australia. Instead apicius is referenced to the appropriate web sites and don’t be surprised to find yourself justifying your subscription to a partner fed up with your bringing home more books about food by how much money you have saved. Lol!
    apicius is a class publication delivering good information and recipes from the world’s current “kick–arse” chefs. Lots of modern techniques, the magazine refreshingly introduces some brilliant, less well known exponents of modern cuisine. A beautifully designed, quality publication printed on quality paper with stunning photographs there is a lot to like about apicius. Anyone with an obsession for food and wine will not be able to resist apicius however an English language editor with a real grasp of cuisine would greatly improve the written content.

     


     
    GENIUS AT WORK LUKE STEPSYS, Magill Estate Restaurant
     

    INSPIRATION :

    Like all young chefs my inspiration comes from the constant evolution of European restaurants such as
    Noma, El Bulli and the Fat Duck. I closely follow WD–50, the French Laundry and Alinea in America,
    Saint Pierre in Singapore, Cy–an in Bangkok and obviously our own Rockpool, Vue De Monde, Royal Mail Hotel and Attica. All of these restaurants have unique food styles, some produce driven, and others technique driven but ultimately the creativity of the chef, and the uniqueness of the restaurant is unique and inspirational. To have the futuristic vision of Ferran Adria, the inquisitive nature of Heston Blumenthal, the understanding of local produce that Thomas Kellar has, the respect of national heritage that Rene Redzepi has adopted and implemented at Noma, and the self taught ’invention’ of Australian chefs such as Ben Shrewy, Dan Hunter and Shannon Bennett’s continuous evolution drive me to work harder and to do better food and my hope is to keep to keep up!

    My favourite book would have to be the El Bulli book ’Natura’. It simply blows my mind and gives me an insight into ’food art’ and plate presentation and the importance of eating with your mind! The endless creativity of the El Bulli team inspires us all.
    The Thomas Keller cook book ’sous vide’ gives me an insight into the perfectionist that Thomas is and the book helps explain the benefit of the sometimes misunderstood method of sous vide cookery and the value that it can add to your kitchen.

    WEB SITE : www.penfolds.com EMAIL : email reservations
    CHEF PROFILE : LUKE STEPSYS, Magill Estate Restaurant

     

    SOUTHERN ROCKLOBSTER, BRUSSELS SPROUTS, PARMESAN CREAM, OLIVE OIL, LEMON AND ROSEMARY

    Serves 4

    Parmesan cream
    Ingredients
    50ml EV olive oil
    100g leek, white part only, finely chopped
    100g celery, chopped, finely chopped
    100g shallots, peeled weight, finely chopped
    30g garlic, peeled weighed, finely chopped
    2 bay leaves
    3 thyme sprigs
    5g whole white peppercorns
    100g white wine
    500g fish stock
    225g cream
    100g Parmigiano Reggiano rind
    300g Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated
    8g sea salt, this may vary according to the type of sea salt you use

    Method
    Heat oil in a heavy based saucepan and sauté leek, celery, shallots and garlic without colouring for 5 minutes. Add the bay leaves, thyme sprigs, peppercorns and parmesan rind then deglaze with the white wine. Reduce until almost dry, then add the fish stock and simmer for 15 minutes.
    Remove from the heat and strain through a fine sieve into a clean pot and bring back to the boil. Add the cream and simmer for 5 minutes then stir in the finely grated parmesan. Adjust seasoning to taste and strain hot mixture into a cream siphon and charge with 2 gas bulbs. Refrigerate for several hours until the canister is cold and smooth, stable foam is formed.

    Parmesan Crisps
    Ingredients
    125g Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated
    70g egg white at room temperature or warmed over hot water

    Method
    Place parmesan and egg white in a large bowl and combine. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
    Place the mixture between two greased Silpat mats and roll out until thin, then gently peel away the top mat. Place onto a tray and cook in a 150°C oven until evenly browned and crisp. Remove from the oven and allow to cool before breaking into small pieces.

    Brussels Sprout Puree
    Ingredients
    50g butter
    25g shallot, peeled weight, finely chopped
    20g garlic, peeled weight, finely chopped
    400g small young Brussels sprouts, finely chopped
    1 bay leaf
    1 thyme sprig
    300g chicken stock
    sea salt
    freshly ground white pepper
    10g watercress puree to add colour

    Method
    In a heavy based pan gently melt the butter and sauté the shallot and garlic without colour for 5 minutes. Add the Brussels sprouts and sauté for another 5 minutes then add the thyme, bay leaf and chicken stock and bring to the simmer. Cook for 20 minutes then remove from the heat and strain, separating the Brussels sprouts from the liquid, but reserving both. Place the Brussels sprouts into a blender and add enough of the poaching liquid to blend and form a smooth puree. Add the watercress puree and adjust the seasoning to taste before passing through a fine sieve. If you are using a Thermomix it may not be necessary to pass it through a fine sieve.

    Butter poached Southern Rocklobster
    Ingredients
    300g cold unsalted butter, cubed
    60g water
    green rocklobster tail from 1 x 2kg plus Southern Rocklobster — refer to green meat extraction
    2g Sea salt, or to taste

    Method
    In a small saucepan bring the water to the boil then immediately add the cubes of butter, one at a time and whisk over a low flame until all of the butter has emulsified.
    De–vein the tail and divide the green meat into 150g main course portions and put into individual bags with some of the butter emulsion and a pinch of salt, cryovac on high and immediately refrigerate. The Southern Rocklobster is cooked to order.

    Brussels Sprouts
    Ingredients 12 small Brussels sprouts
    300g Southern Rocklobster tail meat, chilled
    140ml cream, chilled
    1 lemon rind, finely grated
    salt and white pepper

    Method
    Peel away outer layers of Brussels sprouts and use to form the outer casing to hold the Southern Rocklobster mousse. Chill the bowl of a blender and add the Southern Rocklobster and blend quickly until a smooth puree has formed, then add the cream and grated lemon rind and place into a piping bag fitted with a round nozzle.
    Meanwhile pair up Brussels sprout leaves in 3’s and begin to form, leaving a small gap to pipe in the Southern Rocklobster mousse. When they are full, wrap each one in a small roll of plastic wrap and twist tight on each end. Steam for 5 minutes then unwrap and toss in lemon juice and olive oil, seasoning well.

    Lemon jelly
    Ingredients 100g strained lemon juice
    300g clarified fish stock
    4g agar agar

    Method
    Combine lemon juice with fish stock and agar agar and bring to the boil. Strain and pour into a shallow tray and refrigerate until set. Remove and cut into 4mm squares.

    Brussels sprout and parmesan salad
    Ingredients
    100g Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated
    100g tiny Brussels sprouts, outer leaves removed and finely sliced
    strained lemon juice, to taste
    EV olive oil
    sea salt

    Method
    Combine the Reggiano and Brussels sprouts and make a simple vinaigrette to taste with the lemon juice, olive oil and salt.

    To assemble dish
    other ingredients per serve rosemary flowers
    1 de–stemmed Cavalo nero leaf, softened in EV olive oil
    Heat a water bath to 59.5°C and poach a lobster portion for 15 minutes, and rest in a warm place.
    Heat up a portion of Brussels sprout puree and spread onto a warm plate. Make a small pile of salad on the puree and place a portion of Rocklobster on top. On each side of the Southern Rocklobster, place a poached Brussels sprout.
    Discharge the parmesan foam in two piles and top with crumbled parmesan wafers. Garnish the dish with some cubes of lemon jelly, rosemary flowers, fried Cavalo Nero leaves and give it all a good dash of extra virgin olive oil and some freshly ground black pepper.

    The wine match for this dish chosen by Penfolds Magill Estate’s sommelier Remon Van de Kerkhof, 2003 Yattarna click here to go to the tasting notes

     

     
    NEXT ISSUE  
     

    With the immanent start of the Australian rocklobster season we’ll be looking to add a raft of new recipes we have been working on cooking the lobster in stock and butter.
    We do think there are many advantages with bag storage techniques and we will be exploring that further, but, cooked out of the bag is delivering exceptional results.
    As a chef with 32 years in the industry I understand the enormous benefits of knowledge sharing. It is one of the reasons that each year I make a point of going and working with another chef in another kitchen as their apprentice (yes the oldest on earth). One of the reasons cooking has held my attention for so many years is, you can never, never know enough. At each corner there is something new to learn. It takes an observant eye, a sensitive palate and a skilled hand ot perfectly execute any complex dish. We invite you to share your rocklobster knowledge base by emailing Ann Oliver
    All contributions to our knowledge base will be acknowledged with name of chef and restaurant and links to biographies and restaurant web sites.

     
    THIS MONTH'S RECIPE VANILLA COLD ROLL WITH SOUTHERN ROCKLOBSTER AND PORCINI SALAD
     
    Author Ann Oliver, Food Editor Southern Rocklobster Limited www.annoliver.com

    This is a modern twist on an old French classic, Southern Rocklobster with vanilla. The subtle vanilla flavour and the sweetness of the Southern Rocklobster is a gorgeous foil for the rest of the ingredients.

    Ingredients
    for the vanilla cold roll
    Makes 8

    250g clarified snapper (or similar white fish) stock
    1g sea salt
    2 vanilla beans, split and scraped, seeds only
    1g agar agar
    .5g gelatine
    essential equipment

    2 30cm x 40cm smooth surfaced trays

    salad ingredients
    Makes 1
    20g porcini, fried in lobster oil and seasoned with fine sea salt
    40g cooked chilled Southern Rocklobster leg meat
    pinch sea salt
    white pepper
    30g soft skinned black grapes, cut into quarters
    5g shallot, peeled weight finely julienned
    watercress sprigs
    wild fennel sprigs
    ½ lime, freshly squeezed juice
    10g watercress oil — click here for the recipe


    Method
    for the vanilla cold roll
    Put the stock, salt and vanilla seeds into a sauteuse and bring to the boil and when it is almost to the boil whisk in the agar agar. Quickly soften the gelatine in cold water, turn off the heat and whisk in the gelatine. Divide the liquid between the two trays, spreading it evenly on the tray to form a very thin sheet.

    assembling the roll — this is absolutely a la minute
    The wrappers are very fragile and it is more manageable to work on the tray and use a fine bowl scraper. We love the fine scrapers from the French company Dehillerin. Slice the porcini lengthwise and reserve five pieces, a few pieces of grape, watercress and fennel and three pieces of Southern Rocklobster. Put the remaining ingredients into a bowl, season, squeeze the lime juice over and mix together. Cut one sheet into four and using the straight edge of the bowl scraper slide the bowl scraper under a portion about 5mm and lay the ingredients across the sheet and then working carefully with the bowl scraper roll it up and gently making a few little frills and folds on the top and lift it into the centre of the plate. Arrange the other ingredients on the plate, drip with the watercress oil and serve immediately.

    If you like this recipe/technique you might be interested in another less formal cold roll recipe (pictured left) using Southern Rocklobster consommé — click here to go to the recipe

    recipes for Southern Rocklobster Limited are developed by our food editor Ann Oliver



     
    WINE RECOMMENDATIONS
     
     
    COPYRIGHT © TEXT, IMAGES AND RECIPES Southern Rocklobster Limited 2008

    Southern Rocklobster Limited
    Level 1
    /16 Unley Road, Unley, South Australia 5061
    T +61 8 8357 7569 | F +61 8 8272 7767
    USA 323 371 6115

    There's plenty more on our web site - visit us at www.southernrocklobster.com