IN THIS ISSUE food editor Ann Oliver teams up with her former apprentice, Justin Miles, now multi–award winning chef to deliver some stunning sous–vide dishes read on
GENIUS AT WORK - CHEF PROFILE
Justin Miles, executive chef and owner Windy Point Restaurant, Belair South Australia back in Adelaide for less than 18 months he has transposed his award winning run at the Queensland Noosa Springs Relish Restaurant to Windy Point Restaurant. Recently one of only three restaurants in South Australia to achieve a three hat rating in the 2010 Advertiser Good Food Guide read on
Justin Miles gives us a brilliant dish using Australian Southern Rocklobster tail and exquisite combination of butter poached sous–vide tail that sits on a velvety, silken duck liver parfait enriched with rocklobster stock and held together by a restained kumquat jus… it’s sublime! go to the recipe
Read more about bag cooking and explore the excellent results that can be achieved in the final product and most especially shelf life and eliminating waste read on
From the Executive Officer’s Desk:
The current memorandum of understanding (MoU) between Southern Rocklobster Limited (SRL) and the Australian Government’s Fisheries Research & Development Corporation (FRDC) concludes at the end of this financial year.
SRL is currently in the process of negotiating a new funding model, the Industry Partnership Agreement, which is intended to take effect for the next five years. Discussions are progressing and with all intentions for the new Industry Partnership Agreement to take effect from July 1, 210 and remain in place until June 30th 2015.
SRL and the Seafood Cooperative Research Centre (CRC) are in the development stage of a consultation project regarding SRL’s current market development activities. Highly regarded and successful Market Development consultant, John Allen, has been engaged to commence and facilitate discussions with fishers, processors and exporters concerning current and future market development needs.
This work will feed into providing any future direction and structure for possible new market development activities post 31 December 2010, when funding for the current market development program ceases. John Allen will be operating within the regions commencing April 2010 to begin the necessary face-to-face discussions. If you would like to speak to John please email or telephone me on +61 400 281 904 for further details.
All other SRL projects and platforms are being monitored up until June 30, 2010 to ensure that milestones are delivered and funding agency requirements are met as we approach the conclusion of the current funding arrangement with the FRDC.
CLEAN GREEN
A decision will be made at the end of March 2010 regarding surveillance audits for CLEAN GREEN member vessels for 2009/2010. Affected fishers will be notified in the coming weeks should audits proceed prior to June 30, 2010.
Kindest Regards,
Justin Phillips
Executive Officer SRL
email justin@jp-consulting.com.au
Telephone +61 400 281 904
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Salad of Southern Rocklobster Tail with Mushrooms, Grapes and Celery |
Rocklobster Blancmanger, Jelly and Poached Tail with Fresh and Pickled Watermelon Rose Petal Infused Rocklobster Consommé |
Click on the image to find the recipe
on our web site
Stunning new revolutionary green Australian Rocklobster products from South Rocklobster Limited — sashimi quality vac packed, fresh or frozen tail or leg and knuckle or crushed shell with some tomalley. These products are taking Australia by storm and will shortly be available in the USA for more information contact Matthew Muggleton
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CLEAN
AND GREEN
Is the industry commitment
to see businesses continue to prosper with sustainable
fishing in some of the world’s most pristine
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Clean
Green Program Update — Certified
Sustainable Wild Caught
At Southern Rocklobster Limited we are constantly working to stay abreast of the most innovative scientific developments. This interest in science is not just about sustainability by preserving our generational fishing industry with careful observance of quotas and ensuring that we have something to pass to our children.
State–of–the art green meat extraction on a commercial scale and packaging has been our focus for some time now and the recent release in Australia of our revolutionary CLEAN GREEN fresh and frozen green rocklobster products has rapidly found a place in the market.
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Our land. Our
Plan. Our Future
Rocklobster Stock Using Crushed Shell and Tomalley
makes approximately 2.5L
200g onion, peeled weight, finely diced
150g carrot, peeled weight, finely chopped
100g unsalted butter
75g celery, finely diced
1kg Southern Rocklobster Limited crushed shell and tomalley
600g very ripe heritage tomato, peeled with a tomato peeler and chopped
4L cold water
10g whole white pepper
2 fresh bay leaves
½ bunch parsley
½ bunch oregano
Method
Sauté the onion and carrot in the butter until it is caramelised, then add the celery and cook until it is just softened. Stir through the crushed shell and tomalley and when it appears to be cooked, add the tomato. Add the water, pepper, bay leaves and herbs and set the heat to the lowest point. Allow to come to a simmer and immediately set a timer for 30 minutes. The shell and tomalley will crust at the top. When the timer goes turn off the heat and set a timer for 1 hour.
Taking great care not to stir the stock, skim the crushed shell from the top and filter.
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| FISHERMAN
OR PORT PROFILE TASMANIA |
It is hard to imagine a more pristine environment than Tasmania and this tiny isolated island is rapidly becoming a sought after high-end international tourist destination. The Tasmanians themselves are totally switched on to tourism, whether it be tiny eateries in isolated locations, stunning eco friendly architecturally designed B&B accommodation hugging the rugged coastline or in the city of Hobart were luxury heritage hotels and fine restaurants abound. The island is noted for its brilliant seafood, notably Australian Southern Rocklobster (Jasus edwardsii) and Tasmania is home to a good proportion of Southern Rocklobster Limited’s member fishers. The fishers contribution to Tasmania is in keeping with the entire Island philosophy; sustainable, CLEAN AND GREEN.
Tasmania has a lot to offer, from some of the finest and freshest seafood in Australia, stunning cool climate wines, especially Pinot Noir and méthod Champenoise traditionally made sparkling wines, to a wild and superbly preserved natural environment. It is also the home to tiny utterly unique micro businesses, like for instance Phoenix Seeds in the picturesque tiny township of Snug. At Phoenix Seeds it is possible to buy just about any type of seed secure in the knowledge that none are genetically modified and that all are true heritage seeds. They have an excellent simple world-wide distribution, but do not have a web site!
Food writer Matthew Evans has recently done much to draw attention to Tasmania with his excellent television program Gourmet Chef and his just released book The Real Food Companion. Both the television program and his book draw attention to the lifestyle and general philosophy of the island.
You might like to try cycling from one end of the island to the other, enjoying along the way regional specialties and genuine hospitality or try the isolated luxury and privacy of The Winged House and enjoy cooking some of the splendid product yourselves. Highly recommended is a night or two in Hobart staying at the luxurious historical Islington Hotel and explore the diversity of the city’s dining and wining experiences. To watch epsiodes of Gourmet Farmer click here |
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You might like to try cycling from one end of the island to the other, enjoying along the way regional specialties and genuine hospitality or try the isolated luxury and privacy of The Winged House and enjoy cooking some of the splendid product yourselves. Highly recommended is a night or two in Hobart staying at the luxurious historical Islington Hotel and explore the diversity of the city’s dining and wining experiences. |
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TECHNIQUE MORE SOUS–VIDE |
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Vacuum packing and sous–vide cooking is the safest way to ensure not just maximum shelf life, but also that the product is kept in premium condition without flavour contamination. We hold leg and knuckle sashimi packs for two days and cook them whilst they are still in perfect condition, to use in salads or move them through as a gallette, usually topped with finely sliced scallops and simply served with a lime beurre blanc and some salmon caviar. We recently used the sashimi packs (on the end of the second day) as meat for a fabulous Southern Rocklobster Tom Yum, which out sold the sashimi on the menu three to one. The Tom Yum, inspired after working with chef David Thompson (Nahm, London), was made with crushed shell and tomalley and delivered absolutely brilliant flavours.
The importance of proper chilling cannot be emphasised strongly enough. Service fridge drawers should not be used to store more than what will be sold in a single night, and bulk prep should be held in the chiller/cool room where temperatures do not exceed 3°C/37.4°F and are preferably mostly maintained at about 1°C/33.8°F. When cooking at 60°C the balance is fine and each kitchen should determine their cooking time accurately as it can vary depending on the core temperature of the pack.
READ
OUR COMPLETE TECHNIQUE ADVICE FOR AUSTRALIAN SOUTHERN ROCKLOBSTER
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| Wrapping with EV olive oil or butter with seasonings delivers some excellent results. We cannot sufficiently stress the benefits of wearing food service gloves during the production process. Structured testing in our own kitchen delivered almost double the shelf life with green rocklobster handled with food service gloves. The evidence is too conclusive to ignore! |
Rapid chilling, dating are mandatory in our kitchen and we have totally eliminated waste from our production process and manage to consistently deliver absolutely brilliant food costs. In fact we achieve far better food costs with Rocklobster than we do with beef because of the public perfection of Rocklobster being a luxury item they are willing to pay more. |
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The Real Food Companion
Matthew Evans
Photography Alan Benson
Published by Murdock Books, H/B $80 AUD,
approx $115.95 USD on Amazon
It’s not often that we have such a great Australian cookbook to review. Evan’s cookbook The Real Food Companion is money well spent. A gorgeous publication superbly embellished with the stunning photography of Alan Benson, The Real Food Companion is a book to treasure for its reality check. This book is a reminder of what food and cooking is really about. Evans might live an idyllic lifestyle in a unique area, the Huon Valley in Tasmania, and sure his lifestyle is something that we city slickers cannot accurately recreate, but what it does do is drive cooks and chefs to good city and nearby farmers’ markets. Great chefs have always had a close association with the people who grow the food they cook. They want to know how it is grown, how it is killed and how long it takes from the time it is ’wild caught’ till it lands at their kitchen door. This book is a proper reminder of the fundamental principles of good food production that ultimately equates on the restaurant and domestic plate. Know your growers and producers, be prepared to put your money on the table to buy decent food grown naturally without chemicals, and if even then you don’t get it, go buy hydroponic dill at your nearest supermarket and then go buy the same at your local organic store. The supermarket purchase will be eight bucks wasted, but not really because you will be utterly convinced as to why the extra 50 cents at your local organic is worth it.
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| GENIUS
AT WORKJUSTIN MILES |
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INSPIRATION
: “Marco Pierre White’s book white heat because he said so many truths, especially about there being nothing really new!” and if you could choose to eat anywhere in the world, where would it be? “Without hesitation, Prune, New York,that Gabrielle Hamilton must be my soul sister she doesn’t serve butter with her bread, she serves bone marrow!”
To read a review for Prune click here
WEB
SITE : www.windypoint.com.au EMAIL
: info@windypoint.com.au
CHEF PROFILE :
Justin Miles, executive chef and owner Windy Point Restaurant, Adelaide South Australia
Justin Miles is one of those rare chefs who manages to keep a balance between life and cooking. He continued to rise and rise in the cooking world, until his recent ’three hats’ in the 2010 Adelaide Advertiser Good Food Guide, where his restaurant was one of only three restaurants to receive that coveted accolade. Given that there are some 5,500 restaurants in Adelaide this gives and indication of just how important that accolade is to his reputation and that of his restaurant.
Miles has maintained the elements drummed into him as an apprentice in Mistress Augustine’s Restaurant and the three Michelin–starred London Bibendum, where he worked for six months. On his return to Adelaide, in his own kitchen for the first time, he immediately made his mark on the local dining scene, whilst at the same time building on his overall experience, including running a very busy hotel restaurant and functions facility. From 1994 the accolades started to flow and continue to do so.
The rounding of his cooking and management skills came when he moved to Noosa (Queensland) in 2000 and after two years of high acclaim at Ricky Ricardo’s, he took on the dual role of Executive Chef and F&B Director at the Noosa Springs Resort. Their premium restaurant Relish drew further acclaim and the whole complex won many awards under his directorship.
Miles returned to Adelaide 18 months ago and, shortly afterwards, joined the Sparr Group as Executive Chef at Windy Point Restaurant. Mid–2009 he took on a partnership in the restaurant. The obvious benefits of chef owner have taken this superbly located and appointed restaurant to heights it had previously been unable to achieve. With a strong and dedicated kitchen team, Miles now sometimes works the floor where customers have the benefit of his excellent product knowledge and endless passion for local seasonal produce and great wine.
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Butter Poached Southern Rocklobster Tail, Duck Liver Parfait, Kumquat Essence
Serves 10
for the Rocklobster
1 x 750g green Southern Rocklobster tail — single portions 75g
sea salt
white pepper
150g unsalted butter, melted but not hot
1 lime, finely grated rind, finely sliced peeled lime
Method
pre heat the sous–vide bath to 60°C
Butterfly the tail end of the Rocklobster tail so that it has and even thickness. Season it and place it in a vac bag. Add the butter, lime rind and lime slices and vacuum seal the bag.
cooking times vary
from the service fridge: 4–12 hours refrigeration — 25 minutes
from live, prepped and cooked: (meaning no prolonged refrigeration) — 16 minutes
tips — You can portion this dish individually using buttered stainless rings, which delivers the obvious portion control advantages.
Duck Liver Parfait
makes 10 portions to go with butter poached Rocklobster
500g cleaned weight, fresh duck liver
500g unsalted butter, melted to approximately 50°C
175g brown onion, peeled weight, finely chopped
8g organic garlic, macerated to a paste
25g Madeira
25g Cognac
25g red wine
25g Muscat
1 x 61g whole free range egg
5g sea salt
2.5g black pepper
Method
pre heat oven to 120°C
Blend duck liver in Thermomix or MyCook until smooth. In a separate pot add onion, garlic & liquors, reduce until halved, strain. Add butter to liver slowly whilst blending, trying to create a smooth combined emulsion, then add liquor, then the egg and seasonings.
Pour into a plastic lined terrine mould and cover with plastic food wrap. Place in a water bath and cook for 25–30 minutes. The degree of cooking is assessed with the feel of an underdone cake, still slightly wobbly in the centre and it should be taken into account that the butter will further set the parfait.
Kumquat Essence
makes about 300g
250g kumquat
125g soft brown sugar
1 vanilla pod, split and scraped
125g fresh strained orange juice
125g water
Method
Halve the kumquats and remove the seeds. Bring to boil water, juice, scraped vanilla bean & sugar, then add kumquats and continue to boil for 7 minutes. Turn down to the lowest possible point and allow to tick over for 20 minutes.
tip — if kumquats are not available mandarins are a good substitute.
click here for a print friendly version
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| NEXT
ISSUE |
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next issue
In our next issue we will be discussing the new science and changes in attitude to frozen product. Rapid freezing in conjunction will highly regulated thawing is delivering some undeniably exceptional results (even to skeptics like myself). The obvious benefits are having no waste and absolutely maximising the quality of the product at the same time. We will be offering technical advice and linking chefs with plenty of scientific evidence in the form of published papers to digest. Southern Rocklobster Limited and member fishers have worked closely with SARDI (South Australian Research and Development Institute) Aquatic Sciences division, who has been vital in determining the self–imposed catch quotas, storage and handling. Other papers will come from the internationally regarded, Australian Government–funded scientific research institute, the CSIR0 (Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation).
At Southern Rocklobster Limited we are determined to keep chefs using our products and our member fishers up to date with the latest research and scientific developments.
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| THIS
MONTH'S RECIPE Salad of Southern Rocklobster Leg and Knuckle Meat, Pancetta, Carrot and Black Lentils
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Author Ann Oliver, Food Editor Southern Rocklobster Limited
www.annoliver.com
main course serves 4, entrée 6
300g Southern Rocklobster leg and knuckle meat, or for individual serves divided into 4 x 75g portions
sea salt
white pepper, freshly ground
50g mild flavoured EV olive oil without residual bitterness or pungency
100g black lentils, soaked for 2 hours in cold water, drained, rinsed and cooked in 300g seasoned Rocklobster stock until just tender
other ingredients
50g shallot, peeled weight, mixed with 25g strained fresh lemon juice
100g shallots, peeled weight, finely sliced and crisped in clean corn oil
sea salt
white pepper, freshly ground
12 slices of flat fatty pancetta, crisped in a slow oven
60g blanched and peeled pistachios, roughly chopped
20g citron, diced
chervil sprigs
Method
pre heat sous–vide bath to 60°C/140°F
Wearing food service gloves, season the leg and knuckle meat and put it into a vac bag or individually pack the portions. Add the oil vac and seal.
straight from fridge — 6 minutes; killed, prepared and cooked — 5 minutes. Rest for 10 minutes to allow to moisture to be reabsorbed, then rapidly chill in ice.
to serve
Roll the lentils in the shallot and lemon juice and season if required. Assemble the salad, finishing it with the pancetta, diced citron, pistachios and chervil sprigs and a tiny drizzle of your favourite EV olive oil or Rocklobster oil.
click here for a print friendly version |
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WINE
RECOMMENDATIONS |
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As a chef for and guest at many rare wine dinners, it has to be admitted that matching Champagne to food is probably the most difficult. Especially difficult because Champagne is so widely regarded as an aperitif rather than a food wine so the perception of the diner (and chef) is frequently less clear. Add to that, in the case of rare and expensive wines, the chef and sommelier usually devise the menu from tasting notes, which is obviously not ideal. If we are lucky we may have access to the company winemaker who is better able to explain the flavour profile of the wine and might have been lucky enough to taste the wine in question.
For some inexplicable reason chefs seem to shy away from adding butter to courses intended for Champagne. The NV Joseph Perrier is a stunning match for chef Justin Miles’ Butter Poached Southern Rocklobster is Champagne. We have chosen three at very different price points that we feel are all equally brilliant matches for the Rocklobster dishes in Southern Rocklobster Limited Chef News Nine.
images courtesy the respective Champagne houses web sites
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NV Joseph Perrier This is an exquisitely savoury wine. The savoury aroma profile starts with the smoky toasty nose that is unmistakably French. A soft mousse and super fine bead the nose follows through onto the palate clean and savoury with the barest hint of honeysuckle and vanilla. The smooth voluptuous mouth feel is punctuated only by the tiny pinpricks of the bead, tiny flavour explosions that titillate even further. Comprised of 35% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 30% Pinot Meunier painstakingly selected from 23 crus this finely orchestrated cuvée is aged for a minimum of 3 years. An exquisitely balanced savoury wine the NV Joseph Perrier is a brilliant match for Justin Miles’ Butter Poached Southern Rocklobster Tail, chicken liver parfait and kumquat essence – www.joseph-perrier.com
NV Lanson Black Label
One of the fabulous things about wine is the difference from grape to grape, winemaker to winemaker, company to company. These differences are never more obvious than between house Champagne styles. NV Lanson Black Label epitomises the greatest value for money and consistency of any of the NV French champagnes. With restrained elegance of a true French aristocrat, NV Lanson has a superbly lean fragrant nose that is confined to cold smoked bacon and orchard, a mix of pear and cooked quince. Finely beaded, the palate is savoury with lingering almost lean bacon and green pear flavours embellished with the floral notes of sugar and cinnamon poached quince, with and a length of finish that shows how easily this superbly consistent wine is to match with savoury food. Comprised of 35% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir and 15% Pinot Meunier the grapes are sourced from 50 to 60 different crus and aged for a minimum of three years. This wine is a superb match for Salad of Southern Rocklbster Tail, with mushrooms, grapes and celery. NV Lanson Black Label just loves the balance of the dish and even if you use a little drizzle of chilli oil it laps the dish with a superb balance – www.lanson.fr
02 Roederer Cristal
Roederer is one of my favourite Champagne houses and in my long career of cooking for wine dinners I have been lucky enough to taste many vintages of Roederer Cristal, starting from 1979, up until and including their current vintage the 2002. The consistency of this extraordinary wine is ensured by the house quality control, which means that Cristal is not released unless they deem it to be of sufficiently high quality. Secondly, their ability to draw from dozens of back vintage spirits to blend to a consistent standard, has ensured the credibility of the high price point of this exceptional wine. It is mainly sold on consignment and is difficult to find in quantity from even the most salubrious wine merchants in the world today. The 2002 vintage of Roederer Cristal is evidence of the consistency of the Cristal style and the skill of their winemakers.
Comprised of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, 20% of the wine is matured in oak casks with weekly batonnage. No malolactic fermentation. Cristal is produced using harvests from the finest vineyards of Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs. The wines undergo an average of 5 years maturation in cellars and rest 8 months after disgorgement to perfect its maturity. Dosage of between 8 and 10 g/l is adapted to each vintage. This is a wine in its youth to be followed through the long length of its expected life to enjoy each stage of this wonderful wine. The controlled elegance of this wine with its delicate floral notes and barest suggestion of smoky toffee in combination with the long balanced clean end palate make this stunning wine and brilliant match for the Rocklobster Blancmanger, Jelly and Poached Tail with Fresh and Pickled Watermelon, rose petal infused Rocklobster consommé – www.champagne-roederer.com
to read more about this exceptional wine and the history behind it click here
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