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Southern
Rocklobster Limited
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number four
October 2008
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IN THIS ISSUE
The tomalley is the essence of lobster flavour and a very small
amount infused into the liquid medium can develop an outstanding
depth of flavour. In this issue of CHEF NEWS,
cougeres (right) and two soufflé recipes, double cooked
(right) and a la minute below. Three technically sound recipes
that deliver enviable food costs. READ MORE
GENIUS AT WORK - CHEF PROFILE
IRON
CHEF HIROYUKI SAKAI is mad about Southern Rocklobster and
recently collaborated with Palazzo Versace's Executive Chef Steve
Szabo to create a fabulous dinner showcasing Australian Southern
Rocklobster. READ MORE
Superstar
chef Shannon Bennett, Executive Chef and owner of Melbourne’s
fabulous Vue de Monde, rated in the world’s top 50 restaurants
shares a recipe from his most recent book My
French Vue. READ MORE
Read more about other
chefs using Australian Southern Rocklobster
From the Executive Officer’s Desk:
fourth CHEF
NEWS. We are expanding our USA Program! As we enter
our third season of our market initiative in the USA, we are pleased
to announce that we are implementing an intensive communications strategy
in order to further strengthen the USA market
development program.
SRL offers a unique, branded Southern Rocklobster product certified
as Clean Green, fully traceable and tagged. SRL targets high–end
restaurants for which quality and supply guarantees are paramount.
We specifically are aiming at chefs who recognise the value of a premium
quality wild caught lobster which is tagged, traced, quality guaranteed
and most importantly sourced from a sustainable fishery.
We have completed extensive market research which has shown that face–to–face activity with chefs, wait staff and restaurant owners is likely to be the most effective way to communicate the features and values of Southern Rocklobster to the high–end
US market.
The program will be undertaken by the SRL Market Development team of Matt
Muggleton and Lucy
Hinge, who are now based permanently in Los Angeles for the next
2 years. The team will be supplemented with three additional American staff to
be based on the East Coast and Mid West. Matthew will be responsible for managing
all US operations including the market development team, while Lucy Hinge will
handle logistics, administration, communication and in–house development
support. Chefs can expect a call from one of our team or you can catch up with
them at the upcoming International Hotel, Motel and Restaurant Show in November
9 — 11
in New York.
Our Clean Green certification program now covers 56% of the active fleet and
the program sets the benchmark nationally for the implementation of an integrated
accreditation system which combines food safety, workplace safety and environmental
standards with third–party independent auditing.
Under the Southern Rocklobster Limited (SRL) “fisher–direct” model, fishermen
own the Clean Green product through the supply chain with processing, receiving,
consolidation, and distribution provided under service contracts. Data on supply
chain management are essential tracking tools required to monitor service delivery
and to improve on survival of live lobsters shipped to destinations such as the
west coast of the USA.
It is a chain with numerous steps and we have experienced some traceability and
supply chain issues that have required attention included data entry and management.
We are hopeful of relaunching the fully integrated traceability system this year
following substantial improvements funded through additional investment
by the industry and with Australian Government. In closing, our fisher members
thank you for your ongoing support and interest and we look forward to working
with you over the coming season.
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Rocklobster Cougeres,
a wonderful simple rocklobster canapé made using
only the tomalley
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Looks stunning, tastes even
better, another great recipe using the tomalley
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Click on the image to find the recipe
on our web site
Our
President, Roger Edwards might look like a fairly conventional
bloke, but this is a man who keeps his surfboard and a couple of
bottles of good Aussie red in his office just in case! An economist
by profession his amalgamation of the Australian Rocklobster fishers
has been visionary. The conduit between fishers, government and
the market route, Roger’s unlimited energy has
bought victories for the member fishers of Southern Rocklobster
Limited who are quickly becoming the envy of all other fishing
industry bodies.
Whilst the member fishers acknowledge they may be able to follow the Clean Green module,
the ability to represent themselves to government and the world stage was to
get their brilliant product to the world market.
Roger loves his family first and balances his life with short spells staying
at the family’s remote beach side shack where there is no mobile communication
or email. They are a family that loves eating out (and in) and they have a deep
interest in the technical side of cooking. Gastronomic passion and balancing
the books are rare combinations, but they are our president’s
greatest asset. |
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| CLEAN
AND GREEN.........................the fundamental philosopy
of our member fishermen and management |
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CLEAN
AND GREEN
Is the industry commitment
to see businesses continue to prosper with sustainable
fishing in some of the world’s most pristine
waters. |  |
Clean
Green Program Update — Certified
Sustainable Wild Caught
Fishers are attracted to Clean Green because it allows them to show to the local and wider community that not only do they meet the legislative requirements but reach the highest standards possible. They deliver a high quality product that has been fished in an environmentally sustainable way in an industry where workplace safety and animal welfare are of paramount importance. The Clean Green audit program has also recently been found by the Australian Quarantine & Inspection Service (AQIS) to be acceptable for catcher boats handling live crustaceans for export. This fantastic breakthrough is further evidence of the credibility of the program as their accreditation is extremely tough.
- As fisher John Atkinson explained ‘for many years lobster fishing was just that. We set the pots, brought them home and sold them but we always worried about the future. I completed the Clean Green program and am thrilled to be part of an organization that is acknowledged as being environmentally friendly the marine environment while establishing a benchmark system for future generations working in this industry’.
David Jonston, another early adopter says, ‘we pride ourselves on the superiority of our product. The Clean Green program highlighted the importance of quality and our system gives us the ability to demonstrate this to the market in a completely transparent manner. At a time when many fishing industries are facing shut down, Clean Green fishers are looking forward to market expansion under the Clean Green brand’.
Tagged Clean Green Australian Southern Rocklobster is the chef’s guarantee of Wild Caught, live Rocklobster, from well managed fishers who understand the importance of maintaining their pristine environments and fishing in a manner that is sustainable and allows natural growth whilst at the same time adoption world’s best practice.
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Our land. Our
Plan. Our Future
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Hobart
based John Sanson is a director of Southern
Rocklobster Limited and president of the Tasmanian
Rock Lobster Fishers Association (TRLFA). John has
been certified Clean Green for
three years. A devotee of Wild Caught and Sustainability the
whole Clean Green program
just made immediate sense to him. Very aware of the
environment, John points out Tasmania has extensive
well–preserved wilderness regions and has a spectacularly
beautiful pristine coast line that is equally wild,
tempestuous and dangerous. Like all Clean
Green certified fishers John is proud
that their industry doesn’t just supply the best
Rocklobster in the world, but that their fishing future
is an example for the rest of the world to follow. ‘Natural,’ John
says, ‘is the only way to go, and Clean
Green certification is putting our philosophy
into a reality.’ | |
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PRIDE
AND JOY
It is not surprising that Clean Green list their vessels and John Sanson is no exception. His vessel is called Waygoe
FAVOURITE BEER
Doesn't drink beer
FAVOURITE WINE
Not really a drinker but does enjoy an occasional glass
of exceptional Tasmanian wine, pointing out that Tasmanian
is Australia’s best Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier
grapes for sparkling wines
FAVOURITE HOME DISH
John, like all our member fishers fancies himself as a bit of a cook and give his wife a big vote for her lobster dishes. His favourites are his wife’ recipes; a chunky lobster pâté and a very good traditional Rocklobster Cocktail. John cheekily adds he has something of his own signature dish, a Rocklobster Mornay
FAVOURITE RESTAURANT DISH
John hopes his best restaurant Rocklobster dish is always the next one
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 TECHNIQUE MORE
MOLECULAR ELEMENTS |
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More
molecular elements using consommé provide texture, taste and
interest to dishes. A working trip to Chengdu in January opened
up new ingredients and an unbelievable diversity of textures
and tastes. It came as a surprise that this fascinating chemical
reaction of Sichuan food still allowed for distinct individual flavours.
Rocklobster Consommé Pearls
Makes about 25
For the pearls
250g clarified seasoned Rocklobster
Consommé
2g sodium alginate
1g xanthan gum
Blend everything together and allow to stand for at least 1 hour to thicken
For the solution
5g calcium chloride
1L water
Dissolve the calcium chloride in the water.
We use spherical moulds see IDEAS AND TRICKS immediately below.
Put the calcium chloride solution into the trays and using a syringe, put the
tip into the middle and syringe a pearl into each sphere. Allow to stand for
about 30 minutes before carefully rinsing them off. We store the pearls in consommé which
helps to heighten the flavour.
Transparent dumpling pastry
Makes about 30 x 8cm dumpling disks rolled to the last notch on a pasta machine
150g corn flour
75g tapioca flour + little extra for kneading
1g fine salt
5g sesame oil
10g lard or oil – lard tastes best
250gboiling water or Rocklobster consommé
Mix everything except the liquid thoroughly in an electric mixer with the paddle. When thoroughly combined add the boiling liquid working the dough until it comes together in a smooth ball. Knead with a little tapioca flour and bag.
The dough keeps well when re-sealed. A bit difficult to work but easiest at room
temperature. Store the dumplings in pack away containers on a small piece of
baking parchment. Completed dumplings have a shelflife of three days before
the dough starts to deteriorate. We also dye this dough with spinach powder (available
from health food shops) for a beautiful translucent emerald green.
To cook
Lift the lid and steam for about 10 minutes. Slide from the paper straight into
the consommé.
Pictured – our dumplings were filled with 10g of green Rocklobster leg
meat seasoned with ginger garlic, white pepper and very finely shredded wood
fungus.
READ
OUR COMPLETE TECHNIQUE ADVICE FOR AUSTRALIAN SOUTHERN ROCKLOBSTER
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TOP LEFT – Sichuan Rocklobster Consommé with fresh and dried mushrooms, wood fungus red dates and anatto buds.
BOTTOM LEFT – Consommé of
Rocklobster with consommé pearls and rocklobster and wood fungus
dumplings.
Click on the two left hand images to take a closer look at the components.
TOP RIGHT – pearls in the making.
MIDDLE – Assembling the dumplings.
Storing the dumplings. |
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 SHANNON
BENNETT — Vue de Monde, Melbourne Australia |
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Named in the top 50 restaurants in
the world 2008 Shannon Bennett’s
restaurant Vue de Monde is iconic, not just in the Australian
dining scene, but the world. Vue de Monde is dining
par excellence as are all of Bennett’s dining tiers including Bistro
Vue and the recently opened Café Vue.
Innovation in combination with classical perfection, theatre, a
world class wine list, attention to the tiniest detail required
to make a perfect dining experience. Bennett is loyally supported
by discerning diners in Australia and a pilgrimage for culinary
tourists. Reservations are essential for Vue de Monde.
Fifteen–Minute Crayfish Nage
Serves 2
This recipe works with just as well with prawns, oysters, Moreton bay bugs and other shellfish, such as mussels. If food was ever meant to be served with wine this would be one of the dishes named in the top ten!
50 ml (2 fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil
1 x 800 g (1 lb 12 oz) crayfish (rocklobster), cooked and shelled, tail cut into
medallions
Sea salt
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) clams
1 brown onion, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
6 baby carrots, peeled
1 leek, finely sliced
500 ml (1 pint) white wine
Juice of ½ lemon
Pepper
100 g (3½ oz) cultured butter
2 tablespoons basil leaves
1 tablespoon finely chopped tarragon
8 tablespoons cooked macaroni (made from 4 tablespoons uncooked)
Preheat a large pot over medium heat, add the olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add the crayfish medallions and sauté for 1 minute, then season with sea salt.
Add the clams, followed by all the vegetables in quick succession. Sauté on high heat, stirring constantly.
Add the white wine and place the lid on the pot. Cook on high for 4 minutes.
Season with the lemon juice and salt and pepper. Add the butter, and stir well.
Once the butter is mixed into the bubbling juices, add the herbs and pasta, cook for 1 minute and serve.
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Fifteen–Minute
Crayfish Nage is a wonderful example of the simplicity
of true French bistro cooking; a simplicity that in
no way diminishes the excellence of the finished dish or
the refined flavours it delivers.
Recipe
from Shannon Bennett’s My French Vue,
published by Simon and Schuster 2007, image copyright ©
Simon Griffiths
Visit
Vue de Monde
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| IDEAS
AND TRICKS AND BOOKS A
Day at elBulli, an insight into the ideas, methods and creativity of
Ferran Adrià |
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Images courtesy Phaidon; top left cover,
right Ferran Adrià, bottom a little taste of the
recipes contained in the book – Coulant/soufflé
of granadilla with cardamom toffee page 416
All images
Maribel Ruiz de Erenchun
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A day at elBulli
An insight into the ideas,
methods and creativity of Ferran Adrià
Ferran Adrià — Juli Soler — Albert Adrià
Published by Phaidon Press Ltd 2008, www.phaidon.com — H/B $19.95 USD $75 AUD
Every chef in the
world will want to own this book so they can paw the pages,
devour and analyse every image, covet the first recipes from
the elBulli kitchen and make them their own. Every chef with
ambition dreams of being as famous as Ferran Adrià,
just as thirty years ago the chefs of that time dreamed of
being as famous as Bocuse or before that Escoffier. If you
think about it creativity, true creativity is a rare commodity
in the greatest kitchens of the world, but no chef in history
has turned food upside down in the same way as Ferran Adrià and
his team. No other restaurant kitchen has ever had such
a universal influence on the food of the world.
A day at elBulli is the first book not published by
their own publishing arm and the first book to really come within the
reach (price wise) of even the most lowly paid apprentice. The inclusion
of recipes will set a million of the world's most possessed chefs hard
at work in their kitchen to push forward what the elBulli teams has
been working on for years. Of course there is no catching up but the
results of this ultimate generosity will certainly see changes in menus
globally as chefs seek to play with the recipes contained in this book.
This is a beautiful and unique book with wonderful pictures
and a heart so rarely found in modern day cookbooks. An absolutely
brilliant benchmark book that is without doubt the best book
of 2008. Read our interview with Ferran
Adrià
Ann Oliver — we take book reviewing seriously, for more
book reviews click
here
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| GENIUS
AT WORK IRON
CHEF HIROYUKI SAKAI |
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INSPIRATION
: Iron
Chef Hiroyuki
Sakai is crazy for Australian Southern Rocklobster
WEB
SITE : Iron
Chef Official Web Site EMAIL
: Chef
Hiroyuki Sakai’s official blogg
CHEF PROFILE :
Hiroyuki
Sakai
You only have to look at the fabulous
image or Iron Chef Hiroyuki
Sakai with Southern Rocklobster to appreciate
that he has a zest for life and a great sense of
humour. Born April 2, 1942 Hiroyuki Sakai (Sakai Hiroyuki)
has become a globally famous chef specialising in French
Cuisine. The association of French food and wine has been
longer established in Japan than any other cuisine and
many of Japan’s most famous chefs specialising in
French cuisine have actually done their apprenticeships
in the kitchens of France’s three Michelin star restaurants.
In fact Sakai named his restaurants after the French city
la Rochelle where he did much of his apprenticeship.
Sakai’s restaurants under the La Rochelle brand are found in Shibuya (Tokyo) and Fukuoka. The high reputation of Hiroyuki Sakai’s
restaurants led to sn of his reputation and restaurants they, and Hiroyuki Sakai
are more famous today than they ever were. Producer Toshihiko Matsuo sought out
Sakai on the recommendation Kihachi Kumagai a famous Tokyo hotelier and restaurateur
and thinking it would be just a few episodes Sakai agreed to a six-month contract.
The rest of course is history and six years later he is still an important part
of Iron Chef. Sakai’s fascination for food remains and he is famous for quizzing chefs and their assistants about their techniques.
A member of the Club des Trente, an organization of French chefs in Japan Sakai does not fall into the category of ‘TV chefs’ but is still a highly regarded chef in his own flourishing restaurants.
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Southern Rock Lobster and Oysters with Somen Noodle Salad
Serves 4
100g (3 1/2oz) somen noodles
2 x 850g (2lb) Southern Rock lobsters
12 freshly shucked oysters
1 granny smith apple, peeled and finely diced
juice and segments of 2 limes
1/2 cup baby watercress
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and cracked black pepper
Cook somen noodles in boiling salted water for 4 minutes and refresh in iced water and drain.
Place lobsters in freezer for 20 minutes to send them to sleep before cooking. Cook lobsters in a large saucepan of boiling salted water for 7 minutes. Refresh in iced water. Remove meat from shell and slice each lobster into six even medallions.
To serve, place three lobster medallions on each serving plate and top each medallion with a stack of somen noodles. Place an oyster on each noodle stack and garnish with a little diced apple. Garnish plate with lime segments, remaining diced apple and watercress. Dress plate with extra virgin olive oil, lime juice and salt and pepper. PRINT FRIENDLY VERSION
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| NEXT
ISSUE |
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Extracting green meat is now so easy with our GREEN
MEAT EXTRACTION technique and in our next chef
news we’ll be showing
great ways to keep your sashimi portions in perfect condition with simple,
but divine hot dishes using the prepared sashimi. We'll also
be doing ravioli, the Italian dumplings with some divine and
very cost effective fillings and sauces. We want to use the
best of everything when it comes to ingredients, but try to
run a no waste kitchen meaning we are always looking at ways
to keep our stock moving so that everything is used at premium
condition. |
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| THIS
MONTH'S RECIPE ROCKLOBSTER SOUFFLÉ |
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Author Ann Oliver, Food Editor Southern Rocklobster Limited
www.annoliver.com
SOUTHERN ROCKLOBSTER SOUFFLÉ
MAKES 7
For the soufflé base
200g whole cream milk
1 fresh bay leaf
1 pinch Iranian saffron
100g peeled weight red onion, finely sliced
25g tomalley
2g white pepper, freshly and coarsely ground
50g unsalted butter
50g strong flour
½ small nutmeg, freshly grated
15g freshly and finely grated parmesan Reggiano
130g egg yolk
Other ingredients
soft butter for buttering the soufflé dishes
approx 350g plus egg white at room temperature, preferably our of the shell for at least 3 days
cream of tartar or freshly juiced, strained lemon juice
7 x 50g green leg and knuckle meat
finely grated parmesan Reggiano
For
the soufflé base
Put the milk, saffron, onion, bay leaf and tomalley
into a saucepan and place on low heat. Bring to the simmer,
stirring a couple of times, boil and then turn the heat
off. Allow to stand for 10 minutes then strain off the infused
milk. Weigh out the paprika, pepper, salt nutmeg and flour;
melt the butter and when it foams whisk in the flour and cook,
stirring constantly for a couple of minutes, then whisk in
the milk and continue whisking until it is thick and comes
cleanly away from the bottom of the pan. Stir through the parmesan
and without delay whisk in the egg yolk. Turn the heat off
and keep stirring over for a couple of minutes to finish cooking
the egg and then scrape it into a bowl. Cover tightly with
plastic food wrap and pierce a couple of pin–prick
holes in the top to allow the steam to escape.
Service
Oven temp 180°C/350°F
Soufflé dishes
should be carefully buttered before service (and collared
if that is how you do it.)
We make soufflés by sight but it is approximately
50g egg white per soufflé.
Put 50g base, 1 portion of lobster meat into a bowl
and gently mix them together. In a clean bowl with
a clean whisk add some egg white and a small pinch
of cream or tartar or 5g lemon juice and whisk until
they form soft smooth peaks. If you over beat
the egg white, clean the bowl and start again soufflés
do not rise or have the right texture when made with
dry split egg white. Mix a heaped kitchen
spoon of egg white into the base, and when fully incorporated
very gently add another two. Spoon into a prepared
soufflé dish, sprinkle the top with parmesan
and put in the oven. They take approximately 20 minutes,
centre should be ever so slightly gooey.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO THE PRINT FRIENDLY VERSION
TIPS This soufflé can be double cooked. Allow them
to deflate gently pushing the tops into the dishes as they deflate so they
do not get caught on the top edges of the dishes. While they are still warm
(but not hot because they will break) carefully release them from the dishes
and place them on trays covered with silicon or baking parchment. Allow them
to cool completely and turn the tops up. They will puff again 10–15
minutes in a 200°C/400°F oven.
Anyone can make a high soufflé, that’s easy! The hard part is making
it taste amazing without tasting eggy or being so full of egg white there is
no taste at all. Infusing the Rocklobster tomalley into the milk adds the most
stunning but subtle Rocklobster flavour with none of the bitterness that sometimes
accompanies soufflé bases made with bisque stocks.
We put the dishes on small pizza trays just slightly larger than our soufflé dishes
and rotate them in order. With care they can be pulled forward rotating them
as you go. The hardest thing about a soufflé is getting the service
staff to be soufflé savvy.
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| WINE
RECOMMENDATIONS |
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It
has long been the conundrum of the chef to get the right
balance between delicate food flavours embellished with
chilli and pepper and the sommelier and chef to find a
wine match. Multiple blind food and wine tastings (including
beers) Sauvignon Blanc has been the overriding choice of
our panels, but asking restaurateurs and sommeliers what
their customer’s order, in the main they would plainly disagree. One of Australia’s most famous restaurateur families the Singhs and Sandus with their restaurants The Jasmin and Tandoori oven have between them consistently won Best Indian Restaurant in Australia for more years than any of us can remember. They sell more Australian Shiraz, especially hot climate Shiraz from the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale wine regions, which bluntly defies the educated choice. Both of their wine lists have ample more compatible (in our opinion) wine choices ranging from Sauvignon Blanc, even some stunning Gewürztraminer
and Moselles from Alsace. Why should we be surprised? Years
ago in a three star Michelin restaurant in France that
boasted a menu and wine list that would make most of us
tremble with anticipation. There on the next table sat
a woman who ignored the menu for Parma ham and mashed potato
while she consumed a bottle of 76 Roderer Cristal. An absolutely
stunning wine but certainly not a classical match.
We have all become used to the fragrant blunt chilli lashed
with lime juice and lemon grass of the Thai kitchen, the
rich and hot and mainly aromatic flavours of the Indian
kitchen and the fusion of Indian, Thai and Singaporean
that is found in Malaysian food. We’ve learned about the hot pungency of Vietnamese food with its herbaceous finishes, the duplicity of the chilli if the Hunan kitchen and now we’ve been confronted with Sichuan. Real Sichuan, a mouth–numbing fiery fantasy of chilli, chilli oil and pepper. Real Sichuan is without any real comparison in the Western kitchen, but we have found hot climate young feisty Australian Shiraz works almost as well as the sweet nature of Gewürztraminer. |
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AUSTRALIA — RIESLING — 2005 O’LEARY
WALKER WATERVALE RIESLING
The austere complexity
of this superb wine is yet another example of the coming
of age of New World wines. Made with grapes from 45–year–old
Riesling vines in picturesque Watervale, which is part
of the South Australian Clare Valley wine region. A region
noted especially for superb Rieslings in particular especially
small pockets in Watervale and Eden Valley. Restrained
fruit, perfect balance this wine has a long lingering
finish that makes it a perfect companion for food. We
have served it as an aperitivo with
SOUTHERN ROCKLOBSTER ROCKLOBSTER COUGERES to great acclaim. O’LEARY
WALKER WINES
AUSTRALIA — CHARDONNAY — 2005
PARACOMBE WINES ADELAIDE HILLS CHARDONNAY
The days of full–blown over oaked Australian Chardonnays have mercifully vanished and from the South Australian Adelaide Hills wine region come some of the country’s most elegant examples of modern well–structured Chardonnay. Paul and Kathy Drogemuller have made and exceptional team. Paul, a self taught winemaker has received endless accolades for the Paracombe label and Kathy representing their wines has managed to place them on the country’s
best wine lists. Their 05 Chardonnay is like a ballerina in a stiff tutu making
precise dashing steps across a stage. Skillful, restrained and brilliantly balanced
this is another wine to meld with food. Served with SOUTHERN ROCKLOBSTER
SOUFFLÉ it is a brilliant companion.
PARACOMBE WINES
FRANCE — RIESLING TURKHEIM — 2003
DOMAINE ZIND HUMBRECHT RIESLING
Alsace delivers some of the world’s greatest Rieslings
and Gewürztraminer and whilst many of them are brilliant
aperitivo wines the 03 Domaine Zing Humbrecht is not one of
them. Surprisingly austere this is a wine destined to be served
with food and no better match can be found for this slightly
floral, slightly soft edged wine than
Salad of Australian SOUTHERN ROCKLOBSTER with sweet pickled ginger, watermelon, green mango and herbs. This superb wine picks up the ginger in the salad and rocks it like a baby lulling the textures and the flavours of this complex salad into peaceful submission without ever for an instant losing either the complexity of the dish or the wine and never for a moment smothering the sweet fresh taste of Australian Southern Rocklobster. NO LISTED WEB SITE AT TIME OF PUBLICATION
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