If you cannot see this email, please CLICK HERE

Southern Rocklobster Limited

number five February 2009

FOOD EDITOR ANN OLIVER

 

  • When Grant Achatz and his team at Alinea (Chicago, USA) published their wonderful cookbook Alinea, their generous sharing of knowledge instantly solved something we had been working on. We have lots of excellent ravioli recipes but none as good as this new recipe inspired by their fabulous truffle explosion go to the recipe
  • GENIUS AT WORK - CHEF PROFILE The gorgeous Frank Comorra, currently Melbourne’s Age Good Food Guide CHEF OF THE YEAR kindly agreed to be our GENIUS AT WORK for this issue, but with the frantic lead up to Christmas and everyone taking the opportunity to have a little time off after Christmas, getting over to Melbourne was not possible. As a result, our GENIUS AT WORK section is missing for this issue of our CHEF NEWS. Frank and Richard Cornish are working on a new book to be launched later this year and we’re all set to catch up in February and we look forward to seeing what Frank does with a fabulous Southern Rocklobster.

    Instead we are looking at the THERMOMIX and presenting some of the methods we have perfected in the few months we have owned one. They include small, but important discoveries that make the clarifying of lobster stocks very easy and time saving methods for stocks and bisques that also improve flavour and yields. read more about the techniques
    Read more about why schemes like Southern Rocklobster’s CLEAN GREEN programs are so vital to the future of food and excellence in restaurants. Investigative journalist Felicity Lawrence’s WHAT’S NOT ON THE LABEL leaves a lot to think about read our review

PRESIDENT'S LETTER
Welcome to our to our fifth CHEF NEWS.The lead up to Christmas and New Year have seen major changes for our CLEAN GREEN fishers in Australia. We have seen exceptionally high beach prices in excess of A$100/kg, a 33% devaluation of the Australian dollar against the US dollar, the credit crisis impacting on lobster businesses globally, interest rate cuts and a 30% drop in fuel costs.
No–one could have predicted this dramatic change in circumstances and while it is still early days in the season, we can summarise all of this by saying our competitiveness in world markets, in the short term at least, has improved markedly. The counter to these positives is the slower catch rates which the industry is monitoring closely and will respond to appropriately if required.
Our USA program has been slow to date with record opening beach prices diverting supply to more traditional markets, but we have kick started the New Year with very strong US sales for January. As the Australian season progresses I anticipate volumes will to continue to grow.
The SRL USA team, Matt & Lucy, have recently attended the International Hotel/Motel and Restaurant (IHMRS) show held in New York and the Fine Foods Show in San Francisco. Large live Southern Rocklobsters were on display with many top chefs amazed at their sheer size. They were also impressed with our CLEAN GREEN program and the overall industry sustainability credentials.
The New York Restaurant Show was the perfect opportunity for SRL to showcase our new value added products, and over the course of the show we provided samples of both the ravioli and the bisque. The feedback was extremely positive, with some attendees even wanting to purchase the products at the show! The ravioli and bisque are made using Southern Rocklobster and are ready–to–use portions targeted at high–end caterers and banquet venues.
As an added bonus for our customers I am pleased to announce that SRL has expanded its range of high end seafood products to include CLEAN SEAS Hiramasa Kingfish (Seriola lanlandi) and Suzuki Mulloway (Argyrosomus hololepidotus). These premium products are sourced directly from the fishers and farmers and maintain the highest quality standards.
This is an exciting time for SRL as we aim to supply our USA market with premium seafood which can only strengthen the long term future and commitment to our customers in the USA.
In closing I must thank all our loyal customers and supporters. It is very early days in our long term program to develop new opportunities for chefs to access and use our magnificent lobster product and may I take this opportunity to wish you and your family a safe and prosperous 2009.

President Southern Rocklobster Limited


Not everyone loves sashimi but we have found that by serving this wonderful sugar and salt cured raw rocklobster two ways, suddenly non–believers seem to find it irresistible.

Not our favourite way of cooking rocklobster but some people just love it; love it so much we’ve added FRIED LOBSTER to our food service manual

Click on the image to find the recipe on our web site

 

CLICK BELOW FOR PAST NEWSLETTERS
CURRENT NEWSLETTER MARCH 2010 
NEWSLETTER EIGHT NOVEMBER 09
NEWSLETTER SEVEN AUGUST 09
NEWSLETTER SIX MAY 09
NEWSLETTER FIVE FEBRUARY 09
NEWSLETTER FOUR OCTOBER 08
NEWSLETTER THREE JULY 08
NEWSLETTER TWO MARCH O8
NEWSLETTER ONE NOVEMBER 07 
Southern Rocklobster Limited is continuously working to improve meat to shell ratios - it doesn't get much better than this with consistent 50% green meat - READ MORE
CLEAN AND GREEN.........................the fundamental philosopy of our member fishermen and management
     

CLEAN AND GREEN

Is the industry commitment to see businesses continue to prosper with sustainable fishing in some of the world’s most pristine waters.

Clean Green Program Update — Certified Sustainable Wild Caught
When we first trialled CLEAN GREEN in 2002 our hopes were high that we had reached a sustainable solution for the WILD CAUGHT fishing of Australian Southern Rocklobster. The program especially appealed to fishers because they felt they were in control and government was quick to appreciate the financial and environmental advantages of industry self–management. What Southern Rocklobster certified CLEAN GREEN fishers were not so convinced about was the market acceptance and willingness to buy their product. As more and more of the world’s greatest restaurants proudly list live Australian Southern Rocklobster on their menus, their confidence and pride in the program has markedly grown.
Open food forums in the mass media and books such as those written by American author Michael Pollan (The Omnivore’s Dilemma and most recently In Defence of Food) and British investigative journalist Felicity Lawrence (Not on the Label) have done much to make the chef and the dining population seek more information about where their food comes from, how it is grown, harvested and taken to market.

  • The utter transparency of Southern Rocklobster’s CLEAN GREEN system where the purchaser can track their animals from point of capture to the restaurant door has been a big bonus. Our web site has been a major tool in our market strategy and the visibility of the fisher ports with their pristine waters is further reassurance for the chef and consumer that our environment is well cared for. Most impressively, at a time when so many fisheries are collapsing, Australian Southern Rocklobster fishers are looking forward to a bright and healthy future for generations to come.
    Our entry into the market place has been smooth and rapid and we look forward to continued growth and even higher acceptance of our fabulous CLEAN GREEN and WILD CAUGHT Southern Rocklobster.


Our land. Our Plan. Our Future

 
 
TECHNIQUE MORE ABOUT GREEN MEAT EXTRACTION
 

It’s a bit like making bread every day, some people find it boring but others love the feel of the dough in their hands. In my case my hands tell me its perfect and my brain can wander to something else, more often than not, thinking about what to write so that when I get home I can just type it up. Almost a year in after our first experiments with the ice slurry technique we have become faster and faster and improved our meat to shell ratio, our best effort yielding 53% meat. The ratio is not consistent enough to boast about yet but we believe we can, with more practice, consistently achieve these ratios. The REVISED GREEN MEAT EXTRACTION TECHNIQUE has led to a lot of new dishes using green leg meat, which provides greater scope for a la carte menu items. We’ve worked out the best order of working, starting with the tail and finishing with the leg. We love the fact that we even get the meat from the leg joint and claw tip (on the big claws) and that the method extracts the clear plastic–like shell inside the legs. Whilst one still needs to check for small pieces of shell, the rest is easy and the legs keep a good shape.

READ OUR COMPLETE TECHNIQUE ADVICE FOR AUSTRALIAN SOUTHERN ROCKLOBSTER

 
IDEAS AND TRICKS AND BOOKS — British investigative journalist Felicity Lawrence poses some very scary questions
 
 

NOT ON THE LABEL
Felicity Lawrence
Published by Penguin, P/B $24.95

If you think about it poor people, with a small piece of land that grow their food by time honored traditional methods have the best food in the world today. Do you want your children and grandchildren to grow up never having tasted a fresh fish or a piece of ripe fruit straight from a tree? In her book Not on the Label, what really goes into the food on your plate British journalist Felicity Lawrence explains how the long-life and out of season market works. The section on bread is particularly scary, as is the description of labour gangs (bordering on slavery) which frequently perform the work living and working under the most inhumane conditions. Large chains will undercut their independent competitors out of the equation, even working for months at a calculated loss. This book is a wake up to what we are doing to our food and health, and recognises that we need to take steps to stop the reemergence of slavery in the Western world.

 


 
THERMOMIX SOME NEAT APPLICATIONS FOR MAKING BISQUES AND STOCKS
 

INSPIRATION : Watching kitchen staff take forever to pass the shell for a bisque. Staff cooking a stock too long and introducing inedible bitterness to stock or bisque. Volume loss when passing shells for stocks and flavour loss when using conventional clarification methods. And of course food costs! These are all factors that drive our kitchen to constantly look for new methods to achieve better yields and most importantly intense flavour profiles without a hint of chalky bitterness. We want the stocks to be sweet and succulent.

Images above from left, tail shells which are roughly cut into three before processing, middle, waste after stock and right, after bisque after second processing of strained shell in Thermomix. At Southern Rocklobster Limited, our team is constantly working on developing better techniques and sharing that knowledge with the chefs who use our product. Often these improvements are inspired by other chefs. Sometimes we find ourselves having one of those “why didn't I think of that?” moments instantly identifying directions that we have missed or not fully explored. Our determination to produce the best possible food costs whilst at the same time achieving the best possible flavour is sometimes sped up by pure chance. Read more in our first Thermomix section TECHNIQUEWe welcome your comments

 
 

MAKING A CLEAR LOBSTER CONSOMMÉ USING THE THERMOMIX

Serves dependent on the amount of shell you start with

INGREDIENTS

rinse the lobster shells under cold running water, we have found that lobsters that spend longer in the slurry can be salty
weigh the shell, lobster juices and tomalley (if you are using it)
prepare half the weight of the shell peeled white onion, finely chopped
keeping them separate
prepare one quarter the weight, peeled and finely chopped carrot
one fifth of the shell weight celery, no leaves and very finely chopped50g unsalted butter or EV Olive Oil per 500g shell
1250ml cold water per 500g shell
whole white pepper
appropriate fresh herbs and bay leaves

METHOD
Sauté the onion until it is golden, then add the carrot and continue cooking until it is also caramelised then add the celery. Cook stirring for a further few minutes and then add the tomato and cook until everything is soft. Roughly chop up the shell, put it into the Thermomix and add about 250ml (a cup) of the vegetable. Pulverise the shell in 10 second bursts at speed 10, scraping down the sides until it is very liquid and the shell pieces tiny.
Add the water to the vegetable, scrape the brownings into the stock and then add the pulverised shell. Turn the heat down very low, and stirring only for the first 30 minutes very slowly bring the stock to a simmer. NEVER ACTIVELY BOIL THE STOCK When the scum has come to the surface, turn the heat off and set a timer for one hour. Without stirring the stock up strain through a chinois lined with muslin. The bottom dirty stock is reserved for rice, bisques, soups and sauces that do not require clarity. SEE MORE TECHNICAL INFORMATION

 

 


NEXT ISSUE  
 

Melbourne’s hottest chef, and owner of Movida, Frank Comorra is our GENIUS AT WORK and we’ll be introducing you to Frank and Richard Cornish's’ first book MOVIDA and giving you an insight to the new book they are working on that will be launched later in 2009.
In keeping with the Spanish theme our recipes will be TAPAS style. Scrumptious morsels of Southern Rocklobster that leave you longing for more like steamed lobster with salad of orange, red onion and dill with smoked paprika and chilli oil.
We’ll also be expanding on the use of THERMOMIX when preparing rocklobster dishes and doing some steamed Rocklobster tapas using steaming techniques from the Chinese kitchen.

 
THIS MONTH'S RECIPE ROCKLOBSTER AND TRUFFLE RAVIOLI, ROCKLOBSTER SAUCE, PASSIONFRUIT VINAIGRETTE AND CAVIAR
 
Author Ann Oliver, Food Editor Southern Rocklobster Limited www.annoliver.com

for the stock
1kg Rocklobster stock made using the Thermomix method refer to recipe reduce by half, weigh to ensure you have it exactly right, top to 500g with good spring water
taste and season the reduced stock — we find that shells from ice slurry extraction don’t need salt and only occasionally pepper

for the pasta dough
Australia is blessed with some of the best flour in the world. It is no coincidence that the bakers of Iraq, some of the most talented and least celebrated bakers in the world today fought over the limited Australian flour coming into Iraq at the height of the Iraq war. Much of my cooking comes from old people (older than me) who have fearlessly taken me to one side and told me “you’ve got it wrong!” We used to make pasta dough with strong flour until our friend Lucia, one of my city’s finest traditional Italian cooks pointed out the error of our ways. We have used soft flour or cake flour for years and the result is wonderful. Tender, but al dente it is exquisite!
We also make our dough once a week and vac it; it saves time but it also inexplicably seems to improve the pasta dough. It’s also very easy to take out what you need and reseal. Our lovely egg man, John Morby runs free range and supplies stunning big delicious super fresh eggs. Fresh eggs as we all know are the real taste test. We have foxes on mainland Australia and the John protects his chickens with lamas. So sweet looking they are fearless when it comes to protecting their charges.

Ingredients
1.8kg cake flour
30 fine sea salt
50g EV olive oil
17 x 61g COLD whole eggs; egg size is important
8 egg COLD yolks from 61g eggs

Method
Mix the flour, salt and oil together. Add the eggs and work the dough to a smooth well–kneaded dough. Vac and refrigerate for at least 3 hours before using the dough. We never freeze pasta dough, believing it is an altered state.


for the ravioli spheres
makes 45 – 9 entrée appetiser/entrée serves or 3 ravioli per portion

equipment — half sphere silicon sheets 4cm diameter

Ingredients
315g green Rocklobster meat, roughly chopped — we believe the leg and knuckle meat provide the best flavour
90g quality Italian or French truffle paste
500g of the reduced Rocklobster stock, prepared as previously described
3g agar agar

Method
Put 7g of the green lobster meat into each form and then 2g of truffle paste on top. Put the stock onto the stove, bring to the boil and then whisk in the agar agar and continue whisking until drops will form on the whisk when it is held above the pot — 2–3 minutes maximum. Using a bulb baster fill the moulds and allow them to set.

to assemble the ravioli
Roll the pasta to the finest notch and make the ravioli using as little additional flour as possible.

for the jellied lobster consommé garnish
make another batch of the agar agar consommé and set in a form that will mean it is not more than 5 mm deep

for the passionfruit caviar — make the base 24 hours before you want to use it
100g fresh strained passionfruit juice
150g spring water
2g sodium alginate

Mix everything together in the Thermomix or blender. let stand for 30 minutes, then blend again. Refrigerate for 24 hours.


to finish and store the passionfruit caviar
for the bath
5g calcium chloride
1kg water

Mix together then drop the passionfruit caviar mix into the solution and leave it there until it becomes spherical – approximately 10 minutes. Rinse under cold water and store 50:50 fresh strained passionfruit juice and water solution in the fridge.

for the glacé chilli strands
Very finely julienne large sweet chillies. Cook them without movement in a syrup made from equal quantities of caster sugar and quality white wine vinegar until they are translucent light emitting strips like skinny strips of rubies.

for the passionfruit vinaigrette
The selection of the EV olive oil is critical to the success of this vinaigrette; it should be fresh and sprightly, new, but with fantastic tropical overtones, one of those rare oils with banana and pineapple notes, but with fabulous complexity and a little bitterness on the end palate.

20g roasted pureed organic garlic
240g EV Olive Oil
120g fresh strained passionfruit juice – tropical passionfruit are too sweet
black pepper, freshly and coarsely ground
black sea salt

Emulsify the garlic, olive oil, passionfruit and pepper. Stir the salt through so the grains of black remain apparent.

to serve
place some fine strips of the jellied consommé on a warm plate
cook the ravioli, drain them and place them on the consommé
drizzle the passionfruit vinaigrette over the top
garnish with the glace chilli
scatter the passionfruit caviar over the top
PRINT FRIENDLY VERSION


 
WINE RECOMMENDATIONS
 
 
COPYRIGHT © TEXT, IMAGES AND RECIPES Southern Rocklobster Limited 2008

Southern Rocklobster Limited
Level 1
/16 Unley Road, Unley, South Australia 5061
T +61 8 8357 7569 | F +61 8 8272 7767
USA 323 371 6115

There's plenty more on our web site - visit us at www.southernrocklobster.com